I not sure which is the Bios parameter. But all I can see is a date with

7/10/2002

American Megatrends Bios

A6380VMS V.5.5 071002

on top of the screen.

While at the bottom of the screen written with huge of words & no.'s

62-0710-009999-00101111-040201-VIA_K7-IAARK204-

Phew...that was long.

I installed the MSi info View, and when I tab to the Display section; all Ican see are

Screen Resolution: 800x600
Palette: 16 Bits Color
Vendor ID: 121A Hex
Device ID: 0005 Hex
Subsystem Vendor ID: 121A Hex
Subsytem Device ID: 00.0 Hex

AGP Data Transfers Rate: 1x  2x 4x  (2x in the option box)

Sorry misunderstanding...

A7V333 is more expensive (alot) then KT3 Ultra2

I thought is the cheaper version A7S333...

I think there's two section to set the AGP setting.

Advance Chipset Features
-DRAM Timing Control
-AGP Timing Control
-PCI Delay Transaction ---> Enable (Should I put it on Disable or Enable)

Inside AGP Timing Control Section
-AGP Mode ---> Auto
-AGP Comp. Driving ---> Auto
-Manual AGP Comp, Driving ---> CB (In dark color & can't chage)
-Agp Fast Write ---> Disable
-AGP Aperture Size ---> 64MB
-AGP Master 1 W/S Write ---> Disable
-AGP Master 1 W/S Read ---> Disable
-AGP Read Synchronization ---> Disable

Frequency/Voltage Control
-Spread Spectrum ---> +_(I dunno how to type the character)0.25%
-CPU FSB Clock ---> 133 Mhz
-CPU Ratio ---> Auto
-CPU Vcore (V) ---> Auto
-DDR Voltage (V) ---> Auto
-AGP Voltage (V) ---> Auto

"every time i start my computer up, i recieve 4 beeps (1 long 3 short)"

That's the sound i try to describe...

Now the first system already running Third day without a problem (Blue Screen, Crash, etc)

"recieve the beeps while the screen displays the voodoo3 bios, then it will run thru the POST, but once it trys to load windows,"  run like normal...

Forgot to describe, I attacth a Fan on my V3 2000 (Long time ago)which I can feel much less heat on it.

Hm.

The Problem that the Monitor cannot expand the Picture to full size is rare, but known :

Some Monitors report (or have those in their inf Driver Files) just slightly too high Refresh Rates for some Resolutions.

If you take a Monitor just a bit beyond its normal limit, the screen will still be displayed, yet it cannot be expanded to full size in all directions.
Reason is that the Kathode Tube Magnets are just not powerful enough to deflect the Electron Rays far enough at these high KHz parameters.

Solution :
Manually select a Refresh rate just one setting below maximum.
In all cases I know of, this instantly returned normal operations of the Monitor.

It's also not healthy for a Monitor to be run on Maximum Capacity all the time... This tends to shorten lifespan quite a bit, as it stresses components very much.

Hmm...

Then I'm afraid I'm out of ideas...

Since I've never removed the Heatsink off any Card, I can't really help with it.

But once the Screws/Connectors that hold it in place are removed, it might be already possible to take it off.

If it is still rugged and fixed by a adhesive glue/thermal paste compount, I've heard people taking it into a sealed bag, and leave it in a freezer for some time.

Once the Card is extremely cold, the Adhesive Paste should become unflexible, and (supposedly) it can be then removed with a careful, yet tight twisting movement... The sealed bag is needed to prevent moisture to form/freeze on its critical, volunerable components.

But anyway, I wouldn't recommend it. There were experiments to replace it with an Orb cooler, and some people found out it cooled actually worse than the stock Heatsink

The best thing that was usually done, was to take a really good 40x40mm 486-class Fan and screw it onto the Heatsink.
Since the Card gets quite hot, most 0815 486-Fans don't live long on it, hence it really needs to be a good one.

With Plastic strips, it should also be possible to attach a more potent 60x60mm 586-class Fan onto it.

Besides much more elaborate constructions, that should be the cheapest, and about most reliable/safe way to increase cooling by a significant margin...